Natural wine making since before it was cool-
The history of Cascina Borgatta began in 1948, when Italo Barizzone established the farm in the small commune of Tagliolo Monferrato, where today only about 1,400 people reside. Two of those folks, Emilio Oliveri and his wife Maria Luisa Barizzone, have dedicated their lives entirely to the love of the vineyards they inherited from her father, Italo, in the early days of the 1980s. It is here, at the gates of Ovada in the infamous area of Alto Monferrato, where Dolcetto is known to grow best.
The territory of Monferrato is cut in two by the Tanaro River, which fractionally divides Piedmont from Liguria. The northern part of Monferrato, known as Basso Monferrato (basso meaning "lower"), lies between the Tanaro and Po Rivers and is characterized by rolling hills and plains. The southern part, Alto Monferrato (alto = high), rises from the banks of the Tanaro into the mountains of the Apennines.
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Respect, Respect, Respect- for the soil, vine, and process of making wine.
Emilio and Marie Luisa learned this early on from Italo, they started assisting him in the 1960s, and together, have many vintages under their hats. When the great Italo passed away in the early 80s, they moved to Borgatta's farm and carried on his legacy. With three hectares of native vines of Dolcetto and Barbera grown in the silt-sandy soil, they took the baton of Italo's memory. They carried it intact to today through natural, authentic, complete, and intense wines.
The red wines of Cascina Borgatta are soil-driven wines- with structure and intensity that are well-suited for aging and fabulous for prompt consumption. The Barbera “La Borgatta” and the Dolcetto “La Milla” are perfect expressions of the land on which Cascina Borgatta stands. You get wines with full and soft fruity notes and refined spiciness. More so, they remain wines of great honesty and cleanliness. What you don’t get is what became the norm of the area for many years- ostentatious, stiff wines that lack nuance and fluidity.
Thankfully, the two farmers, both in their seventies (‘my wife is not young,’ jokes Emilio), are still working with youthful stubbornness and phenomenal pride, continuing their rebellion against the forced, manipulated wine style they saw through the years. Since day one, they implemented strict biological management with minimal tillage and interventions only with their hands and a bit of copper when needed. Preserving history one vine at a time, these two stewards of the land are the pioneers of organic agriculture in the region, farming for over half a century in the same way with no assistance from anyone or anything except Mother Nature.
We became aware of Cascina Borgatta in the summer of 2019. We traveled to see them and were instantly intoxicated by the wines and even more so by them. They are kind and generous people who warmly welcomed us in, told us their story, and presented us with a most lovely lunch, made by Maria Luisa. And the wines sang! Oh, and did we forget—they also are dog lovers.
WHO: Emilio Oliveri and his wife, Maria Luisa Barizzone
WHERE: Tagliolo Monferrato • Piedmont, Italy
FOUNDED: 1948
LAND: 4 hectares, with 3 planted / 350 m. above sea level, Southwest orientation.
VARIETALS: Dolcetto + Barbera
APPELLATION: They do not subscribe
VITICULTURE: Organic certification, Guyot old vines minimum 35 years, in Calcareous-tufaceous soils. Harvested by hand
ANNUAL PRODUCTION: Only 9,000
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What a deliciously fruity and rustic profile!
Emilio and Maria Luisa Oliveri are the lively managers of Cascina Borgatta, who still work on their land inherited from her father.
"La Milla" is an authentic style of Dolcetto with a fruity and rustic profile—scent fruits with cherry and ripe plum notes, spice- cinnamon, cloves, and cumin. The taste is soft, complete, and intense, exceptionally supple and elegant. Balanced tannins.
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GRAPE: 100% Dolcetto
AGE OF VINEYARD: average age 40 years
ALTITUDE: 350 m above sea level.
SOIL: silty-sand
TRAINING SYSTEM: spurred cordon
HARVEST: The grapes are harvested and sorted by hand.VINIFICATION: spontaneous fermentation by indigenous yeasts inside insulating concrete tanks. In cement tanks, maceration of the skins for 20 days. No clarification or filtration is made.
AGING: A few months in the second or third passage barrique.
BOTTLE SIZE: 750 ml
PACK: 12
CLOSURE: Cork
ALC BY VOL(%): 14
LONGEVITY: 10 years -
coming soon…
CASCINA BORGATTA
Tagliolo Monferrato (AL), Piedmont Italy
[📸 credits: Cascina Borgatta]